
Once described by New York Times as “one of fashion’s most cerebral designers”, Dries Van Noten may have just floored the tough battalion of editors with romantic prints and floaty silky fabric down the runway for his women’s collection at Paris Fashion Week, but he hasn’t forgotten about his menswear enterprise.
The Noten man enjoys a little sartorial pampering with a new first men’s only store in Paris on Quai Malaquais, just a few doors down from his women’s boutique. The Belgian designer’s finely tailored threads (Noten descended from generations of garment experts) are housed in a former art gallery. The new store retains a large portion of the original furniture and decorations from the gallery, including a gorgeous Seventies red lacquered paneling, juxtaposed against accoutrements from the 18th to 20th century as hand-picked by Noten.
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Aside from bumster pants, and a 3D holographic representation of Kate Moss on his runway presentation, Alexander McQueen has swept the world with his signature skulls and crossbones. Just like the Louis Vuitton Speedy bag or the Balenciaga top-handle purse, the Alexander McQueen skulls scarf was one of the wardrobe staples for any self-respecting sartorialist. After Alexander McQueen had sadly left us on the morning of the first day of New York Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2010, the scarves quickly flew off racks and shelves in mourning. This season marks the last season of McQueen’s work, and he had reworked his skulls motif into a darker, more gothic exploration of the same item. The rustic faded print of stacked bones and desolate skulls have found themselves onto accessories such as scarves, totes and sneakers, made from ultra soft leather, featuring a padded ankle and a skull zip detail. Aside from the pack of skulls, McQueen had also dressed another sneaker in an equally somber chain link print. For fans of McQueen, this may be the last chance to actually own a piece of his design, so godspeed, and find yours at retailers such as oki-ni.
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For those who have yet to take a peek backstage or have only relished the glamor and bustle vicariously through entertainment renditions, it is difficult to grasp what actually goes on behind the scenes, prior and post runway. Unlike what television would have us believe, it is not just hectic glamor, but more so a skilled preparation of the ten minutes of spotlight. It is that final tweak in the popped collar, it is that final pat of powder or smoothing of that stray strand. Michael Bastian gives us a look into his Spring/Summer 2011 presentation at New York Fashion Week, especially the backstage action for his work with GANT, GANT by Michael Bastian. The video was recorded on September 15, named “Life Like A Film”, and features the song “Thelma or Louise” by Angil and the Hiddentracks. Our lives may not be like a film, but Michael Bastian definitely thinks life can be cinematic.
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When one thinks “knit” and “luxury” and equate them, cashmere comes to mind. In every well-stocked closet, there should be a nice, softly spun cashmere sweater which makes one feel like royalty till the end of time. Sadly, while cashmere is probably a sartorial prop to every faucet of life in the cold, it easily falls prey to water and rain. That is, until Allegri Milano launched a collection of water-resistant cashmere coats made from a highly technical Rain Cashmere.
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Known for its beautifully tailored yet highly technical suits, Native Son has also been a trailblazer in terms of presentation and design concepts. Last season, the Los Angeles-based luxury menswear label caught on the 3D wave and paired its presentation with a 3D film. While this season the label scratched the third dimension and stuck to just two on film, its concept is still provocative and avant garde, yet surprisingly accessible.
Based on Eric Fromm’s quote, “The danger of the past was that man became slaves. The danger of the future is that man may become robots”, the new collection is heavily inspired by the military, yet retains a futuristic look with pixelated digital camouflage printed silk suits that embody the fear of men turning into droids.
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Gucci might have launched its online flagship in opulence and grandeur, but Marc Jacobs heads for the adorable and wins over girls who love to window shop (be it the Windows Explorer window, or an actual department store window) with its newly launched e-commerce site.
The new Marc Jacobs e-commerce site mixes illustration with photography and video, and is set up like an actual department store, complete with a floor guide and elevators (Special Items– Sixth floor, please!). The homepage is dominated with a happy drawing of the outside of a store, complete with a swivel door, windows displaying runway videos and collections.
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