Showing at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York this season, Andrew Buckler has joined the ranks of menswear designers who have made it into Lincoln Center, and his collection proves worthy of the theatrics of the new NYFW home. Buckler has been described as a designer who “disregards the universal monotony that plagues menswear”, and true to this statement, Buckler continues to refresh menswear with his own eccentricities, drawing us away from the sea of pastels and tailored short suits. Honestly, with 1924 Olympics and the German modernists’ school, Bauhaus, as inspiration, it is no wonder Buckler’s collection veers far from the tried and trite.
Bauhaus is a key element of modernism, and it’s virtue, “Less is more”, embodied and shaped early twentieth century modernism, and simplicity. The reductionist quests comes through with the use of black and primary colors in the collection. Polished black linen blazers are layered over long-sleeved t-shirts, and paired with blue chinos (also proving that navy and black don’t go together is simply an old-fashion-wife’s tale). A black and white-striped t-shirt in this collection, is a representation of classic Bauhaus flair. Slinky, lightweight, knit hoods and cardigans add an air of ease and to sleek black shorts.
Buckler’s other inspiration was the collegiate of the 1924 Olympic athletes, Eric Liddell and Harold Abrahams, who represented the U.K. in running (their story was narrated by film, “Chariots of Fire”). As such, vintage sportswear such as bomber jackets, reformed jersey sweat pants, navy knit sweaters with red and white stripes on cuffs and elbows, and models sporting little vintage sports caps, delivers the concept of sports and running with an old-world feel.
For Buckler, both the Bauhaus and the 1924 Olympics “represent ardent optimism and a belief in the future”, and in his terms, it translates sartorially into a collection of lightweight linen and natural fibers that are at times polished, at times deliberately aged and broken in, dressed in an unfussy Bauhaus palette.
The Buckler man, will continue to be one who searches for that extra edge in the way he dress, but with no intention of letting the clothes embody everything he is.
Photography by: Juncture