We last talked about Junya Watanabe’s F/W 2011 menswear show, and coming off that collection of casual, old-school collegiate style, is a collaboration with the original American denim maker, Levi’s. Watanabe has taken authentic Levi’s 501s from 1966 and reworked them with his trained eye for tailoring. Vintage selvage jeans have been completely taken apart, re-cut, a cotton lining triple-stitched in, and then sewn back together. Pockets are hand-sewn on, the rise is higher, and  preppy striped or checked linings are visible when the cuffs are rolled up, while still retaining Levi’s signatures such as copper rivets, a button-fly, and back pocket stitching. The jeans are made (re-made?) in Japan and are available here in very limited quantities.

J.Lindeberg, self-described as “youthful but not young,” has released the lookbook for their F/W 2011 collection, inspired by modern fabrics and technology. The Swedish label is known for their contemporary sportswear as well as their golf and ski wear. Using colors taken from winter scenery in their native land, such as deep blues, evergreen, light grey, and pops of red, yellows and greens found in lichen, the clothing is designed for an active gentleman. Single- and double-breasted blazers in camel, gray, and plaid are layered over button-downs and sweater vests, and paired with rolled or distressed jeans and hiking boots. The outerwear includes a green parka with contrast top-stitching and zippers, and a black pin-striped version that really exemplifies their sophisticated sportsman aesthetic. Dandy-ish details like bow ties, mixed patterns and brightly colored socks gave the collection it’s injection of “youth.”

Japanese label Sacai presented a collection using classic knits in unconventional ways (there were certainly more shorts then we’re used to seeing in a Fall line) that channeled a casual schoolboy vibe. Junya Watanabe alum, Chitose Abe, started the Sacai womenswear line in 1999, which expanded into menswear just 2 years ago. Abe is known for her use of contrasting textures and textiles to make intelligent garments that beg to be touched.  For F/W 2011, Fair Isle patterns, cable knits, and mohair are used for cardigans, sweaters, and vests, as well as a shawl-collared poncho and knee length shorts, with a few tweed pieces that add structure to the looks. Each look is anchored by chunky wool socks and brown leather lace up boots. A stand out is the knit parka with a contrasting nylon patch, while the scarves, especially a circle scarf with a nylon drawstring, artfully mix sporty and cozy.

There is a lot to sift through in this upcoming Engineered Garments collection. Daiki Suzuki’s line is doesn’t opt for ultra-slim cuts, but instead looks to up the ante past many other brand’s bandwagon approach to workwear. This collection relies on prints that are more aggressive than the workwear latecomers’ and seems to push towards the trend towards a bit more pop. The Hawaiian-styled floral print jacket, the board-short-ish trousers, and the polka-dotted trousers are just a few examples. More subdued is the tonal print found on the jacket and pants on the matching jacket and pants in the collection. As always, the layers are important, and as Suzuki concentrates on this imprint now, we get to see a push towards the Japanese influence on the American-made brand. via: HB

You know we love Stone Island for all their technical savvy and heritage appeal. We’ve shown you their video of their Italian factory and a brief look at their upcoming collection, yes, but you need to see this upcoming Shadow Project collection as well. Designed by Stone Island’s Carlo Rivetti in conjunction with the ACRONYM® design duo of Errolson Hugh and Michaela Sachenbacher, this collection is a glimpse at what is being called “urban masculine apparel.” From simple details like vertical pockets and long and short-sleeved t-shirts to prevent items from falling out of the pocket while bending over to a Gore-Tex jacket loaded with all the accouterments to a plain white shirt with stretch points for mobility, this collection is aimed at functionality. See more of the collection for sale now at Haven.

About a month back, we gave you a look at the future-forward collaboration between Brooklyn’s Outlier and the master sneaker craftsman at Feit. The Supermarine Bike shoe features a material called Ventile that was initially invented by the British for WWII pilots. The goal of the development of the fabric was to keep the pilot’s feet dry if he was shot down. It’s lightweight, wind-resistent, and breathable. A cork insole makes the shoe soft and rugged while the Vibram sole will keep it coushined. For now, the olive green and flat black pairs are available for pre-order, and when the shoes release in February, according to the site, the price may go up a bit.  So the bottom line is this: these are some of the finest hand made sneakers you could buy, and they won’t last long. Check out Feit’s site to learn more about this exciting collaboration.