While the polished mirror runway claimed several victims during its Spring/Summer collection show a few months ago, Burberry decided to hold on the spectacle in Milan, at least till the end. What started as a humble outerwear shop by Thomas Burberry in 1856, the ultimate heritage brand has grown into one that has outfitted Arctic explorers, World War I soldiers, and now the modern and stylish man of today.

With designer Christopher Bailey at the helm, the once sloth-like fashion house that borrowed too much from its archive, is young, edgy version of its former self, while still maintaining it’s luxury status. For its premum Burberry Prorsum label, it is a new direction for A/W 2011, away from the tight military tailoring of the past few seasons. Over the buttery voice of Dusty Springfield’s classic You Don’t Have To Say You Love Me, the collection started with 1960’s European Mod look, with dropped shoulders, funnel necks, and boxy silhouettes. The color palette is mainly blacks and browns, with pops of color in the red and blue plaids and buffalo checks. There are also plenty of solids in mustard yellows, oranges and an avocado green. In typical Burberry fashion, the line is heavy on outerwear. There are peacoats and duffle coats, and some leftover military influence seen in a few fitted, double-breasted coats and the use of epaulets. Fur is used throughout the collection, most often as a collar detail, but also used in more innovative ways. For example, the unorthodox combination of white fur trim on a brown quilted puffer coat to create an interesting spin on the classic shearling. Fur is also integrated into the knitwear in unique ways. One piece has gray knit sleeves and a fur body, while another weaves fur with thick yarn to make an exaggerated cable-knit pattern. Contrasting leather piping is another detail used throughout the collection, which creates a clean, graphic look. The collection has includes some classic  suiting and slim cut pants that allow the top half to make the statement. Coats and bags from the collection are already available at Burberry’s online store.