Last November’s CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winner was Alabama’s own Billy Reid, so, predictably, the expectations were sky high for the young designer’s Fall/Winter collection. Reid commented about his preparation for the show that he wanted everything to “look perfect.” And while that superlative is certainly in the eye of the beholder, his collection has some notable components. His menswear is not all slim-cut and workwear-inspired like many contemporary mens items, as evidenced in some of his fits. Generously cut chinos and double-breasted jackets that hit below the hips are examples of expressing variety in length and width. Layers also play a part in the Reid look, as we see henley/light jacket/blazer and crew neck/high collar jacket/overcoat combinations. If this showing is an indication of what won the designer his funds, than Vogue should be proud of its choice, as the results are wearable examples of a fully-conceived, proper line.

LA’s own Band of Outsiders has finally assembled a full-blown runway show after years of success while staging informal viewings that were more like model placement than a traditional fashion show. According to the Wall Street Journal, Kirsten Dunst and Kid Cudi were in attendance to watch the show that began with models descending to the stage on ropes. Then menswear options mixed some elements that Band of Outsiders has become well-known for–slim cut striped crews, pristine oxfords, and even rugbys–with some more daring offerings such as a striped poncho or a fur peacoat. The look had many that may not appear while you’re at your next gallery opening or cocktail hour, but isn’t that why we look to runway shows? In their foray into the runway world, we see that there’s nothing wrong with scarves and sport coats, but what fun is all of that without a fur Siberian cap?

Central Park looked a bit closer to Lincoln Center as G-STAR RAW presented its Fall/Winter 2011 Collection at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. Up against the backdrop, a photo of the park’s snow covered trail gave the impression as if the models magically teleported between the 2 incomparable landmarks. And if the stuff of science fiction was a reality, G-STAR certainly made good use of it last evening. Catered to the urban Ernest Shackleton wanna-bes, the collection bordered on 2 eras of denim, one of which denim was merely workwear of common men, the other, a future where denim was a magical “do-it-all”. Between both, the label explored all options, including denim life preserver to dandy cloak with offset pockets. In supporting roles to the denim centerpieces, coats and pants filled with insulation as if in preparation for the next snowpocalypse. Others became measures for possible future confrontation with printed camouflage. At the end, most of the audience realized the show’s theme wasn’t just a stroll in Central Park, but a trans-dimensional exploration.

Director Luchino Visconti’s movies weren’t just fares for the silver screen, each in itself was a mini opera, visually opulent and dotted with complexity, that only happened to be on film. Similarly, you will find the same visual cues, though much latent, in designer Robert Geller’s new collection for this Fall. Loaded with goods in colors of coal, slate, and fine sand, to invoke the texture of aged films for his audience, Geller reenacted his interpretations of Visconti’s black and white films in shaped forms of fine leather wears, blazers, and pants.

As if the rebellious youth Geller presented last season has grown up, there was a touch of formality in the Fall 2011 collection, particularly in the silhouettes and his signature layering. Wool topcoats integrated with double breasted blazer and tuxedo shirt underneath, As if the rebellious youth Geller presented last season has all grown up. Yet, peppered each look was that rebellious undertone, studded belts and cummerbund, leather bike vests and refined wool snoods, all somewhat indicative to the familiar notion, you can never tame those wild at heart.

After taking on the tents at the new Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week home in Lincoln Center, Andrew Buckler decided to take his work out of the tents and several neighborhoods south into SoHo, and the scale is both impressive and palpable, as Buckler shut down an entire block to set the stage for his Fall 2011 collection. Buckler’s dedication to his craft has always been apparent through his attention to details, but going through bureaucratic hassle to find the perfect stage for his theme—artists using the street as a medium to communicate messages—is a whole new level.

Last season, Buckler’s designs were decidedly Bauhaus with splashes of primary shades throughout. However, this season Buckler goes back to black and conducts his business with what he does best—lean, long and layered silhouette with fitted pants. Tailored jackets, long, cable knit cardigans and refined wool gabardine tuxedo toppers add to the collection’s somber look, which seems to bring back an age-old New York City fashion stereotype.

As for how street-art played into the collection, the splashes of highlighter yellow dashed across paneled jeans and parka, and comes equipped with the same intent to shock that street art possesses.

While many brands slightly tweak classic footwear models like chukkas, oxfords, and derbys, this shoe shoves all the heritage and workwear trendiness to the side. Everything about this Bernhard Willhelm and Camper collaboration is striking, from the busy colorway to the thick pink corded laces. Willhelm has never been one to follow the trends, and if you’ve seen his bold skeleton and African-inspired prints on sweatshirts and jumpers, then you’d expect nothing less from a designer whose made a name for himself with off-beat designs. But this pair of hiking trainers is what true innovation is about–from the nylon camo upper fused with brown/orange leather combined with a purple molded heel cap atop a midsole that evokes the Reebok Zig sneakers atop a more traditional Camper gum outsole. Whew. Check the photos for yourself and see why describing a trainer like this is no easy task, and also notice why we at Juncture endorse items like these that push the envelope. These are available for pre-sale now at oki-ni