Underneath shaggy haystacks of inky black hair, the models were pale, wan and listless. They channeled Johnny Thunders’ disaffected glam and Robert Smith’s gloomy romanticism, with floral patterned suiting and bowler hats adorned with ribbons. Rei Kawakubo clearly used punk and goth as reference points for Comme des Garcons’ Fall/Winter 2012 show, but it was the prevailing androgyny of both that left its mark on the collection. It was seen in the cropped pants and skirts that left shins exposed, as well as the dark textured blazers matched with frilly shirts and an oversized damask rose print on a distaff trapeze-like jacket. The assembled looks blurred gender lines as easily as they did the boundary between playful and dark.