The current economic downturn had an effect on creativities of all fashion labels.  But none more so evident than Y-3, the collaborative label between designer Yohji Yamamoto and adidas.  Gone are the days of mega runway productions, of faux thunderstorms on bright summer days and giant ice wall.  Even the usage of vaulted Park Avenue Armory, home to Y-3’s runway presentation the last 3 seasons, went the way of refrainment.  Instead, the show is relegated into 2 smaller venues with one during Paris Fashion Week and the other in New York Fashion Week in the hopes of finding new buyers.  Austerity measures are also visible in the designs themselves.  Somber in mood, the mostly black collection hinted a familiarity, as if the designer resurrected some of his most popular items from the past.  Yet, none looked tired. Instead, the designs have a timeless element to them that could only come the sleight of hand ability of a seasoned professional.

Y-3′s  F/W 2011 collection is all about nature and escape, and the models appeared to be walking down the road or through the countryside via a treadmill and video installation.  Practical and utilitarian pieces like cargo pants, plaid flannel shirts with high collars, wool trapper hats and layered jackets create the look of an urban outdoorsman. Slouchy sweatpants and the iconic adidas stripe are a nod to the brand’s sportswear roots, while a gray suit with slim lapels and sharp white trim provides a sophisticated twist, although even that suit has cargo pockets on the crisply pressed and cuffed pants. Yamamoto’s unique take on tailoring is evident in an angular black jacket with one button high on the chest and sleeveless vests layered over sweaters and bomber jackets. Footwear this season is in the form of brightly printed sneakers and polished white Chelsea boots. A black, white and gray-striped one-piece suit, similar to long johns,  may not make it to the street, but was certainly a talking point. The use of a nordic Fair Isle and a colorful Japanese kimono print is one of the best examples of these two different brands and cultures coming together to create a modern and unique new look.

This season’s Y-3 show marks 10 years for what has been a very successful collaboration between avant garde Japanese designer Yohiji Yamamoto and German sportswear brand adidas. Aside from a traditional runway show (which involved treadmills and video installation of rolling scenery), there was also a documentary and exhibition at the Paris presentation to mark the occasion. The documentary, by Theodore Stanley, provides a rare glimpse into Yamamoto’s world and vision as it follows him through the entire process of creating a Y-3 show, from the first sketches to the final casting decisions. The exhibition displayed some of Yamamoto’s greatest Y-3 footwear designs from the last 10 years.

In the world of fashion, if there is an inspiration that will never die, it is probably rock and roll. However, with rock references making its way back into the fashion tome season after season, it is no wonder many are apprehensive about bringing back a tried and trite influence back. At Yohji Yamamoto and adidas’ Y-3 Spring/Summer 2011 presentation at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York City, we had not only rest assured, but were pleasantly psyched about the collection. With The Duke Spirit rocking out a rousing sound for the runway show held at the Park Avenue Armory, the collection was laced with an undeniably badass attitude.

The collection flaunted by models in dark, Gothic lips, pale faces and deliberately disheveled hair was inspired by the rock and roll power triad– Jimi Hendrix, Janis Joplin, and the King, Elvis. Interpreting the history of rock from the 60s to the 80s through a Japanese lens and Yamamoto’s signature mesh up of fabrics, experimental silhouettes and volumes, the resulting collection is one which surprisingly paired sportswear casual with highly tailored and adorned pieces. Boys donned voluminous cuffed trousers amplified at the waist, held up by suspenders and topped with a cropped Edwardian military jacket lined with metallic cotton sateen for a touch of opulence. The initial looks for girls were can only be described as sportswear bondage, as black sports bra tops were given an added sex appeal with dazzling chains or haphazard straps, and these were sometimes layered under flowing vests which had been modified liberally by Yamamoto’s edgy scissors, then topped over sarong skirts or voluminous harem pants.

If you recall Yohji Yamamoto’s Y-3 Fall/Winter 2010 Runway Show held earlier this year at New York Fashion Week, you may possibly remember space vagabonds running amok in between dancing beams of laser that carved a faux space into the blacked-out armory. For the futuristic vagrant, Yamamoto has imagined a generous amount of metallics, silver, interlaced with jolts of bright purple and red. This collection of sneakers from the upcoming season, named Metallic Neo Tech, are iconic leather sneakers and heels featuring mesh overlays and premium adidas technology.

This is a collection with fuses tradition with foresight of the future, and a portion of the “future” comes from the incorporation of technology such as the adidas adiPRENE technology which provides shock-absorbency and elastic cushioning. For the men, the styles include the Light Runner, the Moto High, and the Neo Tech.